PHULKARI
Phulkari, which literally translates into ‘flower work’, has a
history etched in the culture of Punjab. Spun from the charkha this spectacular
style of embroidery is patterned on odinis, shawls, kurtis and chunris.
The main characteristics of this embroidery are the use of darn stitch on the
wrong side of cloth with colored silken thread. A face of fashion that finds
its first mentions in Punjabi folklore of the romantic protagonists Heer and
Ranjha, Phulkari is a dream weaver for every Punjabi girl.
Phulkari Embroidery
Origin and History
Phulkari is brought to
the Indian Subcontinent by the migrant Jat people of Central Asia in ancient
times. Techniques and patterns were not documented but transmitted by word of
mouth. The tradition was associated with the Sikh heritage but was also shared
with Hindus & Muslims. It has its origins in the famous love story of
Heer & Ranjha (a love tale) by Waris Shah. It’s a present form and
popularity goes back to 15th century. The embroideries were a mere reflection
of a woman’s life and every woman had her way of representing.
In the days gone by,
it was an art that offered complete freedom of creativity. Motifs used were an
adroit representation of the dear and sundry values of Punjab. Since it was
essentially a communal activity, colors and shades were somewhat
run-of-the-mill, however, the fact that most of the women were experts in
Phulkari would even make mediocre look exquisite. Back in the days, it was
a reflection of routine and regular life of a typical Punjabi woman. She
embroidered on a cotton cloth a tale of her tryst with the gardens.
The Comeback of Phulkari
The embroidery took a
backseat with the division of India and Pakistan. However, it soon sprang back
up like an evergreen style statement. Even though there is an inimitable demand
for Phulkari work till date, there are limited credible sources left from where
one can purchase a hand-woven Phulkari fabric. With commercialization of the
needlework, quicker methods of production were devised.
Sources of Inspiration
Thread by thread, each
motif was created in a geometric grid, which was a peculiar technique for
coming up with a curvilinear final output. Long and short darn stitch was put
to clever use for creating horizontal, vertical and diagonal thread work,
inspired by routine of the artists, flowers, and animals.
Faces Behind The Fabric
It was never made for
commercialization. Fabricated for familial customary obligations, Phulkari
became famous mainly by word of mouth. For the people of Punjab, Phulkari is
not just a style of embroidery. For them it is a traditional family culture, a
pious ceremony that begins with the birth of the male child. The grandmother of
the baby boy weaves a fabric of love, spinning dreams of his wedded future with
a beautiful bride to whom the Phulkari will belong eventually.
There is little common
between how Phulkari work was done in the past and how it is done now. Having
completed the household chores, women of the conventional Punjab got together
for friendly gossip and long hours of undisturbed weaving. On a coarse cloth of
homespun khaddar the ladies embroider vivid patterns from the darn stitch. They
took cue from anything around them, be it the scenic beauty of their homeland,
the natural surroundings or a lively dialogue between a mother and child.
The dyeing pigment used
at that time, however, was not colour-fast, a problem for which the modern
times held a solution. Modern Phulkari is a more serious business. From a
leisure activity it has progressed to become one of the major sources of
employment for the women in Punjab.
Variety
The motifs spun out of
the untwisted floss of silk, which is known as the pat, are cleverly fitted
within the grids, representing the life in the hamlets of Punjab. Different
Phulkari designs are reserved for different occasions. While Chope is a gift
from the maternal uncle to the bride, the Wari da Bagh represents happiness.
Similarly Chamba,
Suber and Ghunghat Bagh all have a specific meaning and value attached.
Pachranga and Satranga varieties are available in each of these types, which,
basically means that the needlework used on most Phulkari works makes use of
five or seven different colors of threads.
Various types of Phulkari in India:
1.
Thirma: Symbol of purity, worn by elder women & widows, but
at times, the choice of white is made for esthetical reasons.
2.
Darshan Dwar: Made for a temple as an offering to thank god
after a wish has been fulfilled.
3.
Bawan Bagh: Mosaic of fiftytwo different patterns which
decorate the piece and is the rarest of all.
4.
VaridaBagh: Made on an orange reddish khaddar with the main
pattern being a group of three four small concentric lozenges (diamond) of
growing size.
5.
Chope: Embroidered with one color, usually on the borders.
6.
Surajmukhi: Sunflower refers to the main pattern of this
Phulkari.
7.
Kaudi Bagh: Chains of small white squares representing stylized
cowries.
8.
Panchranga: Decorated with chevrons of five different colours.
9.
Satranga: Decorated with chevrons of seven different colours.
10. Meenakari: Made of
gold and white coloured pat, is decorated with small multicoloured lozenges
referring to enamel work (meenakari)
Innovations in Phulkari
Burgeoning demand of
this fabric from various parts of the globe has been the nucleus of change that
the tradition of Phulkari has witnessed. Having bagged a contemporary label,
the Phulkari today is a lot different. For example, no longer is the darn
embroidered on the wrong side of the cloth. A coarser style of embroidery that
showcases mechanical work rather than detailed handwork, is being largely
deployed by the industry owing to the bulk demand of the embroidered fabrics. Likewise,
Khaddar is being replaced by a variety of other textiles such as chiffon,
georgette, cotton, etc.
New designs for outfits are being established by several modern
designers to reach out to the new segments of customers. Presently, machine made
Phulkari attires are being manufactured in Amritsar and Ludhiana which is
affordable for low end customers. Almost twelve Phulkari suitscan be made in one day by machines
which all the more lower the price of the product. Nevertheless, the machine
made products have not reduced the sale of traditional Phulkari, instead new
markets have opened up popularizing it, making it available to masses.
Wearing Phulkari
A Phulkari suit or
sari mixed and matched with ethnic jewelry in contrast colours looks admirable.
Accessorize your Phulakari outfit with oxidized silver jewellery for a complete
traditional look.
Traditionally
considered a bridal outfit, the Phulkari is till date widely worn during the
wedding season in a family. Bright reds, oranges and blues add a vibrant and
joyous touch to their celebrations. Nonetheless, lighter Phulkari works dyed in
sober colours make elegant daily wears. Since Phulkari is a form of embroidery
that can be done on almost any fabric, seasonal variations are not a limitation
for its suitability. Phulkari Odinis/Dupattas can be teamed with plain
kurti-patiala or a cotton top worn over rugged denim for a contemporary look.
Global Appeal
Phulkari work is a
trending global wear option. With people from all around the world exhibiting
enthusiasm to indulge in Indian culture, Phulkari has easily slipped into the
Western countries. Owing to its wear ability all around the year, the style
rates quite high on the global wearability factor. Depending on the occasion
the Phulkari can be customized for occasional or regular dressing.
The Future of Phulkari
Phulkari work has
spread its fabric from Odinis to full-length suits. The time is not far when we
will see it being used on curtains as an essential part of the interiors
industry. The rural crafts industry could see Phulkari developing as a trend in
designing handicrafts and ornaments as well.
Maintenance
Phulkari is one of the
most detailed and intricate kinds of needlework that needs proper care. A
phulkari garment should we washed with delicate hands and should be ironed on
the reverse side. Occasionally, getting it dry-cleaned will keep the fabric
bright and lively.
·
The silk thread that was traditionally used in Phulkari work was
straighter than an uncoiled steel wire
·
A heavy phulkari work dupatta can cost almost as much as a banarasi silk saree
·
Phulkari embroidery makes use of the least complicated patterns
to create extremely intriguing designs
·
Originally Phulkari was done as a pass time by women of Punjab
·
It takes at least 80 days to finish a Phulkari salwar kameez
·
The first mentions of Phulkari work were found in the Punjabi
text on Heer and Ranjha
·
The patterns of Phulkari are neither drawn nor traced
SAGARA
S G
ASSISTANT
PROFESSOR
DEPARTMENT
OF INTERIOR DESIGN AND DECOR
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