Banni or Heer Bharat (Gujarat)
The Banni or Heer Bharat
embroidery originates in Gujarat, and is practiced mainly by the Lohana community. It
is done with silk floss (Heer means "silk floss") and it is famous
for its vibrancy and richness in color pallets & design patterns, which
include shisha (mirror) work. Bagh and phulkari embroidery of the Punjab
region has influenced Heer Bharat embroidery in its use of geometrical
motifs and stitchery. Heer
Bharat embroidery done in Rajasthan in India is widely acclaimed for its
beautiful mirror work along with beads using red, yellow and pink as the
predominant colors. It is also known as Banni embroidery in Gujarat, where it
got its roots. Though there exists many forms of embroidery work in the state
of Rajasthan, Heer Bharat embroidery gets a prominent place. Premium designs,
richness of the fabric and the intricacies involved makes it stand out from the
crowd. This embroidery got its name from the silk floss used for it, which is
locally called as “Heer”. Hence, the name Heer Bharat Embroidery evolved.
The mirror work
in these fabrics
and dress materials make the heads turn, especially when they come in contact
with the sun rays or lights. It starts to sparkle and gleam making all wonder
for a minute at least looking at its preparation and design patterns. This
mirror work is known as “Shisha”. Usually the different shapes and sizes of
mirror are surrounded by the embroidery in the fabric. Even there are different
types of mirror works, for very small and minute mirror works, Jats community
people are expert for stitching colorful and shady threads around small pieces
of mirrors. Not only has the Jats community practiced this, but also the
Lohanas, Mutwas and Harijans communities too.
Heer Bharat is embroidery where design is filled with thread
work. This filling is done either by button-hole stitch or long and short
(double satin) stitch. It is being done on hand woven and hand spun cotton and
woolen garments. Motifs of geometrical shapes, animals, flora and fauna can
also be seen.
Heer Bharat embroidery is spreading to length and
breadth across the country and people are starting to apply their own
innovative thoughts in the stitching work and design patters to make it look
more vivid. In ancient days, this artwork is confined only to certain garments,
but as time passed by, it is being worked on bridal and groom wears sherwanis
and decorative household items.This art has resemblance to the embroidery works
done in the Kutch and Kathiawar. Thread work is done to create designs in the
fabric. The threads are filled and stitched using button hole and satin double
stitch method.
Selling these Heer Bharat embroideries and improving the
economy of that region where this kind of embroidery works is predominant is a
normal course. But, it is not done only for money, but also looked up on
seriously as a traditional art imbibed in the heart of those artists. The women
of the Jats and Banni community take up these kinds of garments worked in Heer
Bharat embroidery along with them, when they get married.There are still people
who like these kinds of traditional art works and buy them without minding
about the cost which may look little high compared to the modern dress. The
devotion and the time they spend on creating this beautiful masterpiece should
be taken into account. But what has to be seen underline is the hard work of
the art community people which should be appreciated suitably.
SAGARA S G
ASSISTANT PROFESSOR
DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR DESIGN AND DECOR
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